I like weird fashion in case you haven't noticed. I've always had a slight obsession with anything double breasted because I find them interesting in how they look, how they're made, and everything about them. The civilian double breasted frock coat seems to have evolved out of the military coats, which were double breasted and worn open to display the distinct regimental features. In fact, the civilian coats seem to use the exact same patterns as the military variations with the addition of some fashionable components found on civilian coats.
Another style of double breasted coat, called the "Pea Coat," and mostly associated with sailors, is also referenced in numerous runaway ads. Although a double-breasted coat in existence in the mid-18th century, this is not what I'm talking about here. The pea-coat is a utilitarian short coat that does not include the stylings of a frock, including the skirts, and side and tail pleats. The pea coat simple terminates at the base of the turnbacks and includes none of the elegant features of the frock.
There are a few surviving examples of 1770s style double-breasted coats, and many examples as you get closer to the beginning of the 19th century, when the style became more popular, but the mid 18th century double breasted civilian coat seems to be rarer than than later in the century. Still there are various examples that can be seen in artwork from the aristocracy, middling, and poor classes.
For the most part, the pattern of the coat seems to mirror mid-century military regimental coats. The visible difference in the civilian variation is appears to be the pocket shape and and sleeve cuff which tends to vary for more fashionable or utilitarian purposes.
Cuffs are pictured to be in the overly large justacorp style, a fashionable folded over cuff, and straight and mariner cuff. Pockets appear to follow the same variation from the most utilitarian rectangular pattern to fancier pointed shapes.
As a whole, the coat turnbacks seem to follow the same form of the military counterpart with the turnbacks not extending the full length of the front and transitioning to single breasted for the last button or two. The also appear with plain buttonholes or with embellesments that appear to be some for of lace.
The skirts also vary based like military variations being both short and long variations. The referenced caricture of Sir Thomas Robinson is very interesting in that the color of lining of the skirts varies from the turnback color.
The turnbacks also appear to vary in style. They are styled in both the same and complimentary color as the coat itself depending on the wearer.
The wear itself also seems to vary depending on the person. Coats are pictured worn in with the turnbacks secured or worn loose in various image.
Overall, this is a very interesting garment that seems to vary in any which way that it can. As someone who has an affinity for interesting clothing, and enjoys making them even more, I have a feeling that this garment will be going on my winter sewing list.
