The Roaming Tailor

It's not often that I get to travel far. As an apprentice father (I guess you don't hit Journeyman until your oldest is 7?) and generally very involved in everything individual, travel is not something we get to do often. But when we do, we try to fit in everything including visiting at least one historic site. I can't wait for my daughter to be old enough to complain that dad is taking her to another boring history place.

On a recent business trip, I got to stop by a site that I've been wanting to visit for years: The Old Barracks Museum in Trenton, NJ. The site itself was amazing. Gotta say that I'm a little jealous of the amenities in comparison to my usual stomping grounds at Fort Frederick. Ok so not really, it's mostly that I'm jealous that the walk to the bathroom is significantly smaller; visitors are notorious for arriving when your bladder is full. But I am green with at their tailors shop.

Unfortunately, David, the resident tailor at the Old Barracks was not in the day that we visited, but after shooting the breeze with another one of the staff Asher (who is pictured and awesome by the way) he was kind enough to give me a peek into their tailor's shop.

The shop is fantastic. They have many original items including a tailors yard, multiple pairs of Gambia shears, geese, you name it. The thing that I was most jealous of was the natural lighting. The shop is set up to provide the most natural lighting through two large window that blast the entire room with light. You could truly work a full 18th century work day. The two tables inside provide adequate space for all sewing needs. It's a testament to efficient use of limited work space.

We were so impressed that my daughter tried to take home a souvenir in the form of an original pair of Gambia scissors. She has a penchant for stealing scissorsm, and was caught moments before the act in the picture to the right. David, if you're reading this, no need to inventory your scissors; she didn't take them.

The shop at Fort Frederick is still being built, and I can't wait for it to be done. Based on pure design limitations of the barracks, we'd never be able to get that much light into the shop, but I can't wait until the room is finished and I can have my own little fiefdom. Though I may have to worry about small children trying to steal my tools.

Mid Century Double Breasted Coats

I like weird fashion in case you haven't noticed. I've always had a slight obsession with anything double breasted because I find them interesting in how they look, how they're made, and everything about them. The civilian double breasted frock coat seems to have evolved out of the military coats, which were double breasted and worn open to display the distinct regimental features. In fact, the civilian coats seem to use the exact same patterns as the military variations with the addition of some fashionable components found on civilian coats.

Another style of double breasted coat, called the "Pea Coat," and mostly associated with sailors, is also referenced in numerous runaway ads. Although a double-breasted coat in existence in the mid-18th century, this is not what I'm talking about here. The pea-coat is a utilitarian short coat that does not include the stylings of a frock, including the skirts, and side and tail pleats. The pea coat simple terminates at the base of the turnbacks and includes none of the elegant features of the frock.

There are a few surviving examples of 1770s style double-breasted coats, and many examples as you get closer to the beginning of the 19th century, when the style became more popular, but the mid 18th century double breasted civilian coat seems to be rarer than than later in the century. Still there are various examples that can be seen in artwork from the aristocracy, middling, and poor classes.

For the most part, the pattern of the coat seems to mirror mid-century military regimental coats. The visible difference in the civilian variation is appears to be the pocket shape and and sleeve cuff which tends to vary for more fashionable or utilitarian purposes. 

Cuffs are pictured to be in the overly large justacorp style, a fashionable folded over cuff, and straight and mariner cuff. Pockets appear to follow the same variation from the most utilitarian rectangular pattern to fancier pointed shapes.

As a whole, the coat turnbacks seem to follow the same form of the military counterpart with the turnbacks not extending the full length of the front and transitioning to single breasted for the last button or two. The also appear with plain buttonholes or with embellesments that appear to be some for of lace.

The skirts also vary based like military variations being both short and long variations. The referenced caricture of Sir Thomas Robinson is very interesting in that the color of lining of the skirts varies from the turnback color.

The turnbacks also appear to vary in style. They are styled in both the same and complimentary color as the coat itself depending on the wearer.

 The wear itself also seems to vary depending on the person. Coats are pictured worn in with the turnbacks secured or worn loose in various image.

 Overall, this is a very interesting garment that seems to vary in any which way that it can. As someone who has an affinity for interesting clothing, and enjoys making them even more, I have a feeling that this garment will be going on my winter sewing list.

Little Details, Big Difference

The third most frequent question that I get asked when doing living history is "why does it look like that guy is wearing a costume, but you look like the real deal?"

The top two questions, in case you were wondering,
are: "Are you hot?" and "Where's the bathroom?"

Living historians are prone to not giving the general public they deserve for spotting things that are off. No, they probably are not going to realize that your coat is made with 10 stitches per inch instead of 14, or that it's not died with pure indigo. But they can always tell when something doesn't quite look right. I'm not talking about blatant farberism here i.e. tennis shoes instead of accurate footwear, Levi's instead of jean cloth, tourist hats instead historically accurate hats. I'm pretty sure even the History Channel can spot those inaccuracies 😂

The general public will notice when someone's impression does not quite fit in with the rest. They can also tell a great impression from a good impression. We, as living historians, need to self educate and self regulate to improve the overall impression of the group. Little details do make a big difference. There are a few things small improvements that I would suggest to take a passable or good 18th century impression, and turn it into a great one.

Cuffs and Sleeve Buttons
There are fewer things more frustrating and time consuming than sewing a proper 18th century shirt, which is probably why it's not done often. The seams are long, they should all be felled (yay double sewing!), seam allowances are tiny, and it's all for something that no one is really going to see. There is parts that people will see though, your cuffs.

It's a pet peeve of mine to see people walking around with big honking sleeve cuffs and giant buttons closing them. Not only is it not historically correct, it just doesn't look right. Most sleeves cuffs were thin, closed with sleeve buttons (cuff links), and were adorned with this decorate stiching that is colloquially called "The Stitch."

The Stitch is frustrating, it is is time consuming, but it will take your shirt up many notches. To accomplish it you pull a single thread lengthwise 3/8 inch into the arm band, then you fold lengthwise 1/4 inch in and do a back stitch were you pulled the thread catching 2-3 threads every time. Then you fold the band in half, pull another thread 1/8 inch from the fold and do it again. Complicated right?

I'm not saying redo you entire shirt that people are not going to see, but if you replace you ridiculous looking cuffs with properly stitched cuffs, it really brings your impression to the next level and people will admire your great attention to detail.

Glasses: Leave them at Home
Both my vision and my wife's vision sucks. I wear contacts, she wears glasses. There are many vendors who sell "reproduction" spectacles that are close, but can be made better with some small alterations, to being 18th century accurate. What is not accurate is near sighted persons wearing them all the time. Look at period images, even of Ben Franklin, and you will not see people walking around wearing spectacles. If you wear glasses normally, invest in some contacts for events, it will be more accurate than any reproduction spectacles that you can find.

Overlooked Modern Jewelry
This is a weird one. Many people think about more obvious jewelry choices (don't wear your best Run DMC dookie chain), but they forget about the easily overlooked pieces like modern engagement rings and wedding bands. Maybe it's because I noticed one time and now cannot unsee it, but I immediately notice when people are wearing modern wedding bands. I would suggest investing in a Poisie ring or a simple silver band to make sure you don't stick out like a sore thumb.

Alright, that's it for now. I have my other tips and tricks that can take your impression up a notch, but I think that I've done enough venting for now.