Coat Series Step 4 - Seamed Pocket Flaps

There are two ways to attach pockets to 18th century coats. In the first method, perhaps the easier method, you simply sew the pocket flap in place to the outside of the garment, tack up the seam allowance and then you're done. The second method creates involves a bit more work and creates what is called a seamed pocket, which is far more elegant in my opinion. I'm going to take you through the steps of creating a seamed pocket.

The main difference with a seamed pocket is that the pocket flap becomes part of the coat and is in line with the body instead of simply being sewn to the outsize of the garment. The construction requires a little more work but your pocket flap will look much more elegant and less bulky.

If you are making an unlined garment, I highly suggest using a seamed pocket, since they allow you to cover up all your raw edges on the pocket bag using the seam allowances from the pocket flap. This feature is seen on every unlined 18th century garment that I have seen.

Step 1. Determine Pocket Placement

Pocket placed centered on a line between the buttonhole and bottom of side seam.

The positioning of 18th century pockets is very easy to determine. (If you are using a commercial pattern, ignore the pocket placement on the pattern because it's probably not correct.) The pocket is placed on a line that goes from the edge of the bottom most button hole to the bottom of the side seam. Use a quilter's ruler and some chalk and draw that line on both front pieces. You will have to determine where the edge of the bottom buttonhole should be on the piece with the buttons or else the pocket placement will be uneven. 

Easy right? If you're making a welted pocket, the pocket will go right on this line. If you're using a pocket with a flap, the top corners of the flap will rest on this line. 

Use the curve of the pattern piece to draw a line marking the flap placement.

The flap will be centered on this line. Measure your pocket flap from corner to corner and subtract that measurement from the length of the pocket flap line. Divide the remainder by 2, and that will give you the distance from edges to place the corners of the pocket flap. Measure from the edges of the pocket flap line, and mark where the flap corners should be placed.

Step 2. Draw Flap Lines

Once you have the corner points marked, place your pocket pattern piece with the corners touching those points and draw the curve on the fabric with a piece of chalk. This is where your pocket flap will sit. After drawing the line, baste an even running stitch along the chalk line. You will be using this line as a stitching guide later, so make it evenly spaced as possible. 

Baste and even running stitch on the flap line. Seen from the inside.

On the pocket flap piece, measure in from the seam allowance and sew a similar even running stitch. 

Baste the same stitch on the pocket flap stitching line

Step 3. Pin the Flap in Place

Now that you have running stitches sewn for the flap on the body and flap pieces, you pin the flap to the body piece. Placing the right sides together, use the running stitches to match up the seams and pin in place. You can go overboard on pins if you want, you are trying to match up two seams that are naturally going the opposite direction. Stiff fabrics will fight it. Try to get the seams pinned as flat as possible or else the body above your pocket will be a little lumpy.

Pin the flap from the outside. Sew it down from the inside

Step 4. Sew down the Flap

This is the most important thing to remember. Turn the pattern piece to the INSIDE and sew the pocket flap to the body using a back stitch. Don't ask me why, but if you sew from the outside, the body is lumpy every time. Always sew from the inside.

If you want, you can remove your pins as you sew to check on your work and make minor adjustments.

Step 5. Cut the Pocket Bag Opening and Press the Flap Allowances

Now that your flap is attached, you will need to cut the hole for the pocket bag. Working from the inside, make a cut approximately 1/2 inch from the flap seam to make an opening for the pocket back. As you get toward the edges of the flap, make a 45 degree angled cut to join the bag opening to the corners of the pocket flap seam.

Fold the pocket flap down flat over the body, tuck the seam allowances inside the garment so that they lay flat, and press all of the seams so that everything looks nice.

Next Up... Installing the Pocket Bags